3S-GTE Engine Conversion 2005
Work is in progress as from March 2005
Well there it is, a very sorry looking "Tubby" 69,000 miles on the clock, one careless owner. Soon to be examined, then stripped of parts, then crushed!
The usual stuff...
Engines out to start, followed by mild Mk1 withdrawal symptoms
Honestly, I had to make myself take the 20v out, a superb engine, just not enough power captain! You see, my chum has a 200sx with about 300bhp, and his performance around the local track is getting out of hand. I need to catch up. The Landy is very useful as a ground anchor! Note Supercharger rear lights, very pleased with them.
Drive Shafts & C.V. Joints
When you come to do the drive shaft
alteration, all you will need are two Celica GT4 ST 165 or GT4 ST 185 outer
front drive shaft CV joints, and hopefully, when you got your Mk2 engine you
also got the complete Mk2 drive shafts. The new Celica CVs replace the MR2 Mk2
outer joints. The reason you need to do this, is because you will need a smaller
male outer drive spline shaft to go through the Mk1 female hub spline assembly,
and a big female spline CV to fit the big male drive shaft spline of the Mk2.
Hope that’s clear! If not have a look at the picture instead…
Fuel Pump
Once you have the fuel tank out (a most unpleasant job if you ask me) it's very strait forward, just swap the old Mk1 pump for the Mk2. I can't believe how many Toyota parts are interchangeable. In the picture below you can see both pumps, the one to the right is the Mk2 turbo pump.
Mk2 coil-overs
To hold the weight of the new larger engine I have decided to fit the Mk2 springs and shockers. Apart from opening up the top mount holes, they are a direct replacement. Read up date below.
Here we go!
8th May 2005: Due to my mates Mk2 G-LTD blowing up, the project has been on hold for a bit wile we fixed that. I have just started offering up the engine in to the bay. Its quite a tight fit, but it dose go in ok. I have been looking at other 3SGTE conversions and am not that keen on cutting into the rear bulkhead, so with a large hammer in hand, I have modified the shape of the car to suit the new engine.
Engine mounts and positioning
24th May 2005: After a lot of friging about I have the engine where I want it! Basically the drive shafts dictate where the engine ends up left to right and also front to back. The thing to do a this stage is get an even amount of movement left to right with the drive shafts in place and the hub nuts undone, O and also you don't want any funny angles on the C.V. joins in general. I down loaded the engine mount templates from www.TwoBrutal.co.uk and then made some slight modifications to suit my install. To get the correct height for the engine in relation to the drive shaft angle I first took my mk1 springs off the shocks so they where loose, then jacked the wheels up to where they where when sitting on the road. You can see this in the second picture. Plus I colored the right gearbox output shaft for definition so I could see it was level with the chassis cross member. If when its all done and the car sits a bit high on the mk2 springs I will chop a bit off them!?
28th and 29th May 2005: This is the weekend when the manufacturing of the left and right engine mounts would be done. Here you can see the left and right hand side mount in place. They are made from 5mm mild steel plate and I just cut them out with a hack saw! This took quite some time...I'm glad that's done.
"You don't need to cut the bulkhead... so don't!"
2nd June 2005: After letting the paint dry I trial fitted the engine today. I have to say "I don't believe it" It just went straight up to the mounts and sat perfectly in place. Shame about the picture quality. Note top mount Celica intercooler. You will have seen it here first!!! I have plans at some point to make an air intake F1 style to feed the intercooler more air. Failing that I would like to get my hands on a Celica charge cooler, that is the ultimate in turbo air cooling. Not fitted in the picture is a Celica ST185 top mount alternator, a must for this project. You can mount the alternator in the original place but it may foul the quarter sub frame that holds some of the right-hand side suspension components. There is no turbo fitted on the car at the moment because it has been given to www.turbotechnics.com to put a new set of seals in and a nice 360 degree thrust bearing with steel shaft! ;0) That will be good for just over 300bhp at just over 22PSI. Not that I will be running it up there to start with you understand.
Picture 1 is 2nd of June, 2nd picture is later on the 3rd of July all in and running well.
4th and 5th June 2005: Have just finished making the front and rear engine mounts. These were also made from the 5mm steel sheet, but also incorporated some original Mk1 and Mk2 MR2 engine brackets. There's nothing like welding in the rain to keep you on your toes!
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Wiring
6th June 2005: I have wired the 3S-GTE in just like I did the 20v Silvertop. I keep both fuse boxes from both cars. I have moved the Mk1 box to inside the passenger compartment and the Mk2 box is in the engine bay. I find this the easiest way to do things. Basically I chop the Mk2 wiring loom inside the passenger compartment and splice this into the N1 connector that is normally located in the Mk1 rear boot. What I have done is move the N1 into the passenger compartment of the Mk1. I have also extended the rear light wires so they still reach the rear boot now the fuse box is inside the car.
XS POWER
12th June 2005: Today is just a matter of fitting the "quite frankly enormous" reconditioned Toyota CT26. With 360 degree thrust bearing and new steel shaft replacing the old ceramic one. This was done because when boosting over 16PSI with the old ceramic shaft they have been known to snap and go down the exhaust pipe! XS Power fat down pipe replacing the CAT. Also just making shore that all peripheral vacuum pipes are replaced because you don't want to be changing those with the engine in place. At the end of today engine is in for last time.
Zorst
14th June 2005: I have offered up the original mk2 exhaust up and it just about fits with a little intrusion into the left hand side wheel arch. Its attached in a very similar way to the mk1 exhaust mount. I had to cut some of the pipe and change some of the angles, plus I used a bit of flexi pipe to join to the manifold down pipe.
Battery relocation
18th June 2005: One of the things that you will need to do is move the battery from the engine bay. All I have done is use the spare wheel bracket to locate the mk1 battery top mount bar and drilled a hole in the floor for the long bolt on the other side. I am using the mk2 battery because it is smaller in size to the mk1.
Spring and anti roll bar up date
15th of June update... I have just put the car on the ground for the first time with the new engine and its sitting so high its unbelievable! To high. I have reverted back to the mk1 shocks and springs. Basically I'm running mk1 shock bodies with Koni insert adjustable shocks and Fensport 20% up rated springs and it is spot on. And "no" its not sitting on the jack in the first picy, even if it is bigger than the car! With regard to the anti roll bar, I have fitted the Ozy made White-line AW11 18mm up rated anti roll bar. Part number BTR64Z. you can get these from Demon Tweeks in Wales.
Spooling up for the first time!
17th June 2005: She fired up for the first time after having not been in a car for 3 months. Click here for a very small video clip of extreme joy!
Still working!!!
3rd of July 2005: I have now covered over 600 miles since completion and apart from some minor things every thing is fine. The engine itself has good oil pressure and is incredibly smooth. I have been tinkering with it today and have found that the mk2 gear linkage is a virtual direct swap for the mk1. This in affect gives you a much shorter shift gear selector, both in movement and height. This is way better than buying a cheep after market setup on ebay. In the first picture below are the two stick shifts side by side. The only mod I had to do was cut a new hole higher up for the forward backward movement.
Fuel Economy
Now if you had asked me what I thought fuel economy was going to be the other day I would have said between 150 to 180 mile per tank... WRONG! Even with some foot to Wilton driving I still managed to get 215 miles to the tank, I think that's very good because at best I got 250 miles per tank from the 20v Silvertop.
Extra Mods for Turbos
Right! It seems (touch wood) to be running ok, so its time for a few well chosen mods. The first of which is a 13" down draft Kenlowe fan placed on top of the intercooler. This can flow air up to 1170 c.f.m. Next up is a Bailey dump valve. Because I have a Celica intercooler I had to go for a Bailey DV26 "D" and fitting kit. The "D" is specific for an AFM driven car like a 1990 Celica GT4. As with all turbo setup you will need a boost gauge. I have gone for a Pro-comp boost gauge. Its the dogs bollocks!
HKS STD Fuel Cut Defencer
Strooth! That's right "Defencer". Basically the FCD is a small box of electronics that prevents the ECU from cutting the fuel supply when it detects that the turbo is producing to much boost or "over boost". Ordinarily when an MR2 turbo boosts over 12 PSI it momentarily shuts the fuel off and the engine warning light comes on, and if like me (smug bar stool) even in the Mk1 if wired in correctly. You then have to turn the car off to reset this, otherwise it shuts the fuel off every time it gets a sniff of boost. Now with my HKS FCD it came with the usual book of words, trouble was it was a book of Japanese words! So to help you if you have a problem wiring one in here is some help. Do bear in mined that this needs double checking in every case and this is for an HKS STD FCD 4501-RA002. My car is a Rev1 10/1989~09/1993 SW20 3S-GE, T-15 ECU.
To install the HKS FCD you need to:
1. Disconnect car battery.
2. Connect the FCD black wire to earth.
3. Connect the FCD red wire to a live feed.
4. Cut the "PIN" wire .ie. map sensor wire on ECU plug "C" pin "13" 1990 MR2 Turbo should be a blue wire with black stripe.
5. Connect the yellow female FCD wire to ECU side of the "PIN" wire on ECU plug "C" pin "13" 1990 MR2 Turbo should be a blue wire with black stripe.
6. Connect the white FCD wire to MAP sensor side of blue wire with black stripe.
7. If like me you have a Rev.1 3S-GTE engine, the HKS FCD dial needs to be set on setting number 7. Different engines have exact settings that need to be dialed in.
have a look here to find which setting you need. www.HKSeurope.com
9. Double check everything!!!
